How To Install Windows In My House

When Maddy Krauss and her hubby, Paul Friedberg, first laid eyes on their 1897 Shingle-mode home, they fell in love with its handcrafted turn-of-the-century construction, wide front porch, and massive entry-hall staircase. They were also delighted to discover that many of the original architectural details were withal intact, including wood paneling, exquisite carvings, stained-glass windows, and an ornate cast-statuary fireplace.

The windows were another story. The originals had been swapped out a decade earlier for depression-quality sash kits that were drafty, ugly, and completely inappropriate for the graceful Victorian-era home, This Old House Television receiver's fall 2007 project in Newton, Massachusetts. The solution: Call in TOH general contractor Tom Silva and his coiffure to install energy-efficient replacements.

Because the existing window frames were sound and square, Tom could use insert replacement units—in this example, Andersen's Woodwright Insert Replacement Windows, vinyl-clad forest units fitted with energy-saving, low-east insulated drinking glass. These fully assembled, prepare-to-install windows slip right into the existing openings.

When the job was done, the house had beautiful new double-hungs that looked right, worked smoothly, and gave Maddy and Paul i more than matter to dearest about their onetime firm. Here'southward a await at how Tom made the switch, with tips for choosing and installing replacement windows.

How to Install Replacement Windows

1. Window Replacement Parts

Analogy by Robert Hardin

Types of Replacement Windows

Different total-frame windows, which are designed for new construction, replacement windows are made to fit into existing window openings. They're bachelor in dozens of standard sizes, from as narrow as xi ½ inches to equally wide as 68 inches, and come up in wood, vinyl, fiberglass, vinyl-clad forest, and aluminum-clad wood.

At that place are iii basic types of replacement windows: sash kits, insert replacements, and total-frame units. Sash-replacement kits—what Tom institute on the Newton house—give an one-time window frame new movable parts, including jamb liners and sash. The liners are fastened to the side jambs of the window opening, then the sash are slipped in betwixt.

For these to work, the existing window frame must exist level and foursquare. An insert replacement window consists of a fully assembled window in a ready-to-install secondary frame. Sometimes called a pocket window, an insert replacement slips into the existing opening and is then fastened to the sometime side jambs. Considering you're adding new jambs and liners, the glass area will exist slightly smaller than information technology was before.

Full-frame replacement windows are similar to inserts, except that they take a complete frame that includes head jamb, side jambs, and sill. These are the simply choice when the old window frame, sill, or jambs are rotted. To install these, you must strip the window opening down to its rough framing, inside and out.

2. Measuring for Replacements

Photo past Russell Kaye

The most of import footstep in the window-replacement process happens long before installation day. It's when you measure out the dimensions of the existing window frame to make sure you club a replacement unit of measurement that's the correct size. Here'south how to practice it.

• First by measuring the inside width of the old window frame, jamb to jamb, in three places: across the pinnacle, centre, and bottom. Write down the smallest of the three measurements.
• Next, measure out the frame's height from the top of the sill to the underside of the caput jamb in iii places: at the left jamb, in the heart, and at the correct. Again, tape the smallest measurement.
• Check the squareness of the frame by measuring the diagonals from corner to corner. The two dimensions should be the same. If the frame is out of square by one/iv inch or so, don't worry; the replacement can be shimmed to fit. Anything more may require adjustments to the frame. If the frame is so out of whack that a square replacement wouldn't expect correct, you'll need a total-frame replacement.
• Finally, employ an angle-measuring tool to determine the slope of the sill; some replacements come with a choice of sill angles.

3. Take Out the Sash

Photo by Russell Kaye

• The commencement step is to remove the old sash from the window frame. In most cases, yous'll demand to pry off or unscrew the interior wooden stops to remove the lower sash. (If yous're planning to reinstall the stops, do this job carefully; they break easily.)
• Side by side, accept out the parting beads to costless the upper sash. If your windows, similar these, were previously fitted with sash-replacement kits, there won't be whatever beads. Simply press in on the jamb liners and pull the top of the sash forwards.
• Then pin one side of the sash upward to free it from the jamb liners.

iv. Pry Off The Jamb Liners

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• If the window frame was fitted with vinyl or aluminum jamb liners, use a flat bar to pry them gratuitous. In the instance of an original window, remove any remaining wooden stops from the window frame.
• Get out the interior and exterior casings intact.

5. Prep the Frame

Photo past Russell Kaye

• Scrape off all loose and blistered paint and patch any holes or cracks with an outside-course wood putty, such as the ones from Elmer's or Minwax.
• And then sand the jambs smooth, and prime and paint the surfaces.

6. Remove the Sometime Sash Weights

Photograph by Russell Kaye

• If the original sash weights are still in identify, have this opportunity to remove them from their pockets and insulate backside the window frame.
• Unscrew the access panel on each side jamb and pull out the weights.

7. Prep For Insulation

Photo past Russell Kaye

Tom likes polyurethane foam, because it'south more than effective at blocking air than fiberglass insulation.

• Make sure to utilise only low-pressure, minimally expanding foam intended for windows and doors; anything else volition bow the frames and go along the sash from working.
• First, pull out any existing fiberglass in the weight pockets.
• Then diameter three/8-inch-diameter holes, one near each end and one in the heart, downwardly through the sill and up through the caput jamb.

8. Spray in the Foam

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Shoot the expanding cream into the holes until information technology begins to ooze out. (Tom is using a commercial system, but you tin do the same job with foam from a can, like Dow's Great Stuff.)
• Besides spray cream into the sash-weight pockets in the side jambs. Allow the backlog to harden for at least 6 hours, then break or cut it off affluent before replacing the sash-weight pocket panels.

9. Caulk the Opening

Photo by Russell Kaye

• In preparation for installing the window, apply an elastomeric caulk to the exposed inner face of the exterior casings or to the blind stops on the tiptop and sides of the frame. Likewise employ two continuous beads of caulk along the windowsill.

10. Install the Window

Photo past Russell Kaye

• Working from inside the room, fix the bottom of the insert replacement onto the sill, so tip it upward into the opening. Printing the window tight against the exterior casings or bullheaded stops.

xi. Fasten It Loosely

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Agree the window in place with one 2-inch screw driven loosely through the upper side jamb and into the framing. The screw should be in but far enough to permit the window to operate.
• Close and lock the sash.

12. Shim as Necessary

Photo by Russell Kaye

• Adjust the unit by inserting shims under the sill and behind the side jambs until it is centered in the space and opens, closes, and locks smoothly.
• Mensurate the window diagonally from corner to corner; the measurements should be the same. When the window is square, screw it in place through the predrilled holes.
• To avoid bowing the frame, sideslip a shim backside the jamb at each spiral, and then spiral through the shim.
• Trim the shims flush with a utility pocketknife.

13. Caulk, Prime number and Paint

Photo past Russell Kaye

• From the outside, measure the gaps betwixt the window frame and the casing. Fill gaps less than i/4 inch wide with elastomeric caulk. Anything wider must offset exist blimp with foam-rubber backer rod.
• On the inside, fill any gaps around the window with minimally expanding foam.
• Finish upwards past reinstalling the stops or adding new ones.
• Then prime and pigment, or stain the interior of the window sash and frame.

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Tools

Source: https://www.thisoldhouse.com/windows/21016627/how-to-install-replacement-windows

Posted by: smithcoulp1969.blogspot.com

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